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1 Comment
Source: [Wikipedia, Sport Climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sport_climbing_at_the_2020_Summer_Olympics_–_Men%27s_combined)
Tool: Matplotlib/Seaborn for visualisation, pandas/python for data wrangling
See also the same visualization for Qualification Men, Finals Women and Qualification [here](https://imgur.com/a/wFOEQJX).
This visualization shows the results of the climbing competition of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo and compares the actual final rank of athletes with the rank they would have obtained using the current scoring calculations for climbing (which will be used at the 2024 Olympics in Paris).
For more details:
– in *Tokyo 2020*, the climbing event combined all 3 disciplines, Speed, Boulder and Lead. The score (and rank of an athlete) was calculated by multiplying the rank at each individual event, and the lowest aggregate would place higher. Therefore, someone doing badly at Lead could still advance (or place high) if they did really well at Speed.
– in *Paris 2024*, following comments that Speed on one end, and Boulder/Lead require very different skills, the events are split accordingly. For over a year, the Boulder and Lead competitions score as follows:
* *boulder*: 100 points divided accross 4 boulders (25pts per boulder top, 10 per high zone, 5 per low zone, -0.1 per unsuccessful attempt)
* *lead*: 100 points max if the route is finished. The first 10 holds climbed give 1 point each, the next 10 2pts each, then 3, then 4 for a total of 40 holds for 100 points.
* then we sum both scores, highest total wins.
**Comments:**
A couple interesting findings:
– For men, Alberto Gines Lopez, surprising winner in Tokyo, would have barely made it to the Finals and finished 5th overall (mostly due to poor Boulder results).
– For men still, the podium would have been very different and legendary climber Adam Ondra would have clinched an Olympic medal (3rd place).
– For women, Korean athlete Chaehyun Seo,17 at the time, can be disappointed. Not only she would have finished 1st overall in qualifying, but would have clinched a medal with 3rd place in the finals instead of her 8th place. Jessica Pilz would also have finished 2nd in the finals, instead of 3rd.